The Road Less Traveled - Good-bye Western Mountains

Stats Wednesday, August 25 – Salida to Pueblo. Day distance 102; ride time 6 h 31 m (8 h 30 m); ave speed 15.8; total climb 7128; max speed 44; total distance 1,603 miles

A good night of sleep does wonders. I felt so much better this morning. It’s a beautiful morning. Not a cloud in the sky.

We enjoyed a leisurely breakfast at the Super 8 breakfast bar supplementing what they motel offered with extra fruit we had picked up earlier.

We had no rush this morning because Roger’s spokes would not arrive until 10:30 at the earliest and maybe not until 1:30. About 10:00 we all found ourselves at Absolute Bikes (the bike shop in Salida).

10:30 came and went. No spokes. At 11:00 Mick, Tim, and I decide to head on to Cotopaxi about 20 miles away. There we will call Roger and see if his spoke has arrived.

The ride from Salida to Cotopaxi is all downhill. But little or no shoulder is available. Grabbing a sandwich at Cotopaxi we call Roger. YES, his spoke arrived and he will be able to roll in about 30 minutes.

There’s a decision for me to make at Cotopaxi. Take Hwy 50 to Canon City and Pueblo (the short route with very little climbing but the prospect of a busy road), or take the less traveled secondary route through Westcliff and Wetmore including a 2000’ climb and 20 extra miles.

Mick and Tim decide to take the longer route. Less traffic. We don’t know what the scenery will be like. But Tim wants the extra miles. I recall Pueblo only from I-25 from previous years. Not the prettiest section of Colorado. Kind of dry and “deserty.” Will this extra 20 miles with extra climbing be a grind just to miss traffic? I decide to stay with Mick and Tim.

The route from Cotopaxi to Pueblo through Westcliff and Wetmore turned out to be one of the most beautiful sections. After the initial climb we ran parallel to a range of mountains for over an hour and then enjoyed a plateau.

Following Westcliff, a 20 mile descent awaited us as our maps indicated we would go from over 9,000’ to under 5,000’ by the time we reached Pueblo. The descent was one of the best we had experienced. As Mick, Tim, and I were in a middle of an “S” turn a couple of big horn sheep bolt up a steep rocky wall.

With this final descent we say good-bye to the western mountains. I can see the plains beyond Pueblo blending in with the eastern Colorado horizon.

As the descent began to flatten out we still had 20 miles to go. And the wind picks up. WIND. We know it’s coming. The wind on the plains.

I hate to say good-bye to the western mountains. I love their beauty. And I’d much rather be on a 10 mile 6% climb than wrestle with a 20 mph wind on the flats. But this ride about seeing the whole country. The plains await us.

I’m so glad I did not opt for the shorter route to Pueblo. The route we took was worth the extra miles. That final descent was worth every pedal stroke up. Most likely we will come back to it tomorrow for Roger to do as he drove the van down. And Tim will want to do it again.

Sometimes the shortest route is not the best. The view and the ride is better on the road less traveled even if it takes longer.

Monarch Pass - Not as We had Planned

Stats Tuesday, August 24 – Gunnison to Salida. Day distance 64.2; ride time 4 h 50 m (7 h 30 m); ave speed 13.25; total climb 3773; total distance 1501miles

My brother Merlin had mentioned that Gunnison was a wet area. Marshy. Yep, when we awoke everything was very “dewy.” It took a little while for the rain fly on the tent to dry with the rising sun.

Mickey took off ahead of everyone else. He intended to get 20 miles down the road. Tim would then meet him, pick him up in the van and the two of them would take the van to the top of Monarch Pass. They then would ride down the western side of Monarch, meet Roger and me and the four of us could climb the big mountain together (11, 318’). This plan gave Roger the opportunity to put in more miles and enjoy the scenery.

Bicycle touring is kind of like seeing the country from a convertible car. It’s great. No roof obstructing the view. We get to enjoy the view not at 60 or 70 miles an hour – but to visually savor the scenery at 12 mph or 20 mph. Sometimes at 3 mph as in CA and UT when we were hauling gear up mountains!

Roger and I got all packed up and ready to roll into town for breakfast when I discovered I had a flat front tire. We decided to air it up enough to get to the breakfast restaurant. After having ordered breakfast I could then change the tube.

Thirty miles of a gentle ascent lay before us and the “big climb” of Monarch. As we look at the mountain range ahead thick clouds blanket the peaks.

About 8 miles before Sargents (where Monarch Pass really goes “up”) Tim and Mickey meet us on their way down from leaving the van at the top. The top, they tell us, is completely socked in with clouds and fog. Can’t see more than 10’. The road is damp. It’s 42 degrees. They descended 3 miles before they got out of the gray soup into sunshine.

At the bottom when they meet us Mickey cruises by as he has a couple of miles he needs to go back to ensure a continuous route of riding. As a “transcontinental cyclist” he does not want to miss a section – even 2 or 3 miles!! He wants to be able to say, “I rode the whole thing!” Me too.

A half mile from Sargents, “pop!” Roger’s rear wheel has a broken spoke! This is a BIG disappointment as it renders his bike un-rideable. His wheels are custom made from a company in Asheville. This could be a big problem for the rest of the week.

At Sargents we take a rest at a convenience store / restaurant. Roger catches a ride to the top of Monarch with a guy in a Jeep Cherokee. Roger can then go onto Salida where a bike shop is located and see about getting his wheel repaired. So, we are not going to be able to climb Monarch together, the four of us.

Mickey and Tim seem energetic. But I don’t feel normal. A little tired. So I start the climb without them riding at a slower pace. From Sargents it’s a steady 10 mile climb to the top.

The climb is beautiful. Looking back occasionally I can see the valley below. At times the road features sharp drops at the edge with little or no shoulder. A guard rail is present most of the time.

About ¾ of the way up Mick and Tim catch me and we finish the ascent to the summit together. It’s sunny now. But windy. Cold. 60 degrees. This is the highest summit on the entire trans con route. So it’s a celebration!!

After hot chocolate at the gift shop we start down. Tim takes the van and Roger rides Tim’s bike on the descent. It’s cold. COLD. Roger descends like a highway patrolman in pursuit of a speeder. Fast! I can’t do that. I shiver a little causing the front wheel to shimmy slightly. I’m cold. Need to concentrate. Mickey and I hang together. Roger is out of sight. As we descend in elevation it warms.

Five miles out of Salida a tracker-trailer passes Mickey and me with no shoulder. He purposely shaves our space. WHOA! The vacuum sucks both of us toward his trailer. No exaggeration. He was no more than two feet from us!! No oncoming cars. Just playing with us. I’m not impressed or appreciative of Colorado drivers!! With a burst of energy I pedal harder thinking that I might be able to catch him a mile or two down the road if there is a stop light. I want his license plate number of a trailer number. Something to report. Never did see him again. Thank you angels!

Arriving in Salida I am very tired. I take a nap in the parking lot of a Holiday Inn Express. Just laid down on the concrete with my helmet as a pillow. An ant or two interrupt my short slumber. The other guys scout out possibilities for lodging for the night.

Today didn’t turn out as we had planned. Roger’s broken spoke. Didn’t get to ascend the highest pass together. But we keep pedaling. Spinning. Shifting gears to go up. Shifting to go down. Enjoying the view.

Roger was able to order spokes from Asheville and have them overnighted to Salida. They should be here tomorrow.

The guys opted for a Super 8 motel instead of an RV park. I’m glad. I could use a bed tonight.

Man - This is Liv'in!

Stats Monday, August 23 – Ouray to Gunnison. Day distance 101.4; ride time 6 h 18 m (8 h 20); ave speed 16.07; total distance 1436.8

Mickey, Roger, and I all left at different times from Ouray. It was spitting rain this morning as we left. Tim drove the van into Montrose to have the brakes check. It was downhill most all the way to Montrose (35 miles). Roger stayed with the van until the brakes job was completed. Tim, Mick, and I went to a Subway for an early. A bunch of high school kids were there. Mick, having volunteered many days last school at the school which his wife, Teri, teaches smilingly told the kids to study hard. His friendly nature reached out to the group.

I have a great group of guys with me. Their personalities are all unique. Roger – a little quiet at times is reflective and thoughtful. Tim – a little unfiltered at times, keeps us laughing. Mick, Mr. Diplomat and conversationalist, keeps our spirits up when fatigue threatens. All are unselfish. All are giving. Time, resources, heart – if they have it each will help. The Rook games in the evenings are competitive. But good natured and frequently gives reason for a rematch.

Because the morning segment from Ouray to Montrose took little effort we decided to make this a bigger mileage day. We set out for Gunnison. That would give us about 100 miles.

We had a west wind out of Montrose. Two climbs awaited us. The first at 2,000’ and the second about 1,500’. (Our cycling maps give elevations. They’re great. It would be daunting to be on a 20 mile climb and not know when it ends. Hmm… maps and knowing what is coming up…I think that is a thought for a future blog.) Tim did the first climb and Roger did the second. They each had a long downhill to enjoy. Roger and Tim fly down the hills. Hitting close to 50 mph. Mick and I are a little more cautious. Plus, our bikes will not go that fast as easily. Tim, more than once today exclaimed, “Man this is liv'in!” It is fun seeing Tim and Roger eating up this ride.

Mid to late afternoon we past Blue Mesa Lake. It must have been 12 miles long. The west wind continued strong. At the end of the lake we stopped and ate sandwiches out of the van. It was Roger’s turn to drive the last 20 miles to Gunnison.

With the west wind Mick, Tim, and I “flew” (22-28 mph) the last segment. It was a blast. Later that evening, Mick commented, I’ve never finished a 100 miles ride that fast.”

Tonight we are in a very nice KOA – sleeping on grass. Man, this is liv'in!

Spectacular Scenery - This is Crazy - Good

Stats Sunday, August 22 – Durango Mountain to Ouray. Day distance 44.6; ride time 3 h 46 m (5 h); ave speed 11.84; total climb 4468; total distance 1335.4

It was dewy this morning. So it took a little longer to get packed up waiting for the sun to hit our campsite and dry things out.

Tim drove back to Durango to get his cable fixed.

Mick, Roger, and I set out for the first of three passes - Coal Bank. More traffic was on the road than we thought. But most cars were respectful. Except for the rude driver of a pickup pulling a horse trailer. He honked at us while we were single file when he was perhaps a football field back of us. Then he whizzed by us with no shoulder with his left tires barely crossing the yellow line.

Coal Bank Pass was not a hard climb. And the skies were partly to mostly cloudy. Cool temps. No heat.

We checked in with Tim via cell phone. It would be another 40 minutes before he would be done. So we decided to head down and startup Molas Pass. We did not descend that far so the climb again was not that intense.

This may be a bit premature to say, but, these passes are not sucking the energy out of Mickey and me as we experienced in Nevada and Utah. There’s no heat. We are not hauling gear. It’s not that we are going up any faster. We’re going about the same pace. But the energy output is not as great. Roger and Tim have nothing to compare it to.

Molas Pass arrived soon. Great views. We checked in with Tim. He was just leaving Durango. We decided to descend to Silverton. Tim could meet us there.

Just outside of Silverton the train was chugging up from Durango. Someday I would like to bring my family back to this area and ride the train. Silverton is filled with tourist and mountain supply stores.

Tim met us and we ate peanut butter and jelly sandwiches and Italian bread and cheese, and banana bread out of the van.

One more pass to go, the highest on today’s ride, Red Mountain Pass. We had heard that no guard rails were on this section. Little or no shoulders were available. And the drops were steep. The reports were correct.

It was cold and windy at the top of Red Mountain Pass. Everybody started down but I took my time. The road was filled with corners. Later in Ouray I saw a tee shirt that read something like this: “I Survived Red Mtn. Pass – 8% and 155 Curves.” It didn’t seem like an 8% grade. I didn’t count the curves and switchbacks. But there were a lot.

Yesterday I commented to my three friends: “Fifteen years ago I only dreamed of cycling the Rockies, and now WE’RE DOING IT!!” I was living in Texas at the time. Fifteen years ago if someone said, “You ought to cross the country cycling,” I would have thought “that’s crazy!” Some reading this blog think it’s crazy. No, this is not for everybody. But it is for those (like me) who enjoy cycling, enjoy being outside, and like a challenge.

Someone asked us a few days ago how long we trained for this. I thought to myself, I’ve been training for 25 years. No, I didn’t think of “this” 25 years ago. But, I’ve been riding for 25 years. Actually longer.

Point: what we do today may provide opportunities years later. Little things we do daily, weekly, prepare one for life’s potential experiences. What may seem to be unreal or crazy today may become a reality later.

In part, I'm doing this cross county bicycle tour because I began cycling more than 25 years ago. But on the other hand, there are experiences that I can't engage in today because of what I did not do 25 years ago. I did not learn a foreign language (such as Spanish, German, French) when I was young. Therefore, I am not able to engage in an intellectually meaningful conversation with one from another country or to serve in ministry to those who speak another language other than English. What we do today, learn today, practice today impacts what we may or may not do years later.

About 7 miles from Ouray my mouth dropped open. The scenery was spectacular as the road continued to descend. Dramatic rock walled both sides of the canyon. The road was narrow. No shoulder. No guard rail. Cars crept along. The view reminded me of the first time I descended into Yosemite Valley from the backcountry at Nevada Falls and Vernal Falls. Spectacular!!

Yeah, this is crazy!! Crazy memorable!! The scenery, the challenge, friends. Crazy good!!

Durango to Durange Mountain / Roger and Tim Join the Ride

Stats Saturday, August 21 – Durango to Durango Mountain. Day distance 25 miles; ride time 2 h (2 h 30 m); ave speed 12.3; total climb; total distance 1290.8 miles

After a wonderful weekend at the home of the Engebergs the four of us (Roger Hill and Tim Sellers who joined us from North Carolina and Texas respectively) left Durango about 3:00 for a short 25 mile ride to the Durango Mountain Ski area. We did this so that Roger and Tim could begin to get acclimated to the higher elevation and knock off a few miles of the 75mile segment to Ouray. Tomorrow we will only have 50 miles but a lot of climbing.

We enjoyed the beautiful scenery as soon it became apparent that we were in the mountains.

While en route to Durango Mountain, the front derailleur cable on Tim’s bike broke. He also needs a different gear cluster for his rear wheel in order to handle the climbs. We decided that in the morning he should return to Durango as there are multiple bike shops. He should be able to quickly get it repaired.

We four enjoyed evening camping by a stream (for free on National Forest Land), that included a picnic supper that Roger and Tim had planned and playing Rook by firelight and flashlight.

Also, I got to try out a new sleeping bag (for the cooler temps in the Colorado mountains) that Sharon and Lexi (wife and daughter) had gotten for me and sent out with Roger. I have a wonderful family who is doing "real life" at home gifting me with this once-in-a-lifetime adventure.

Durango & Recovery at the "Engeberg Hotel"

Stats Thursday, August 19 – Delores to Durango. Day distance 51 miles; ride time 4 h 4m (5h); ave speed 12.6; total climb? - altimeter went crazy; total distance 1265.8 miles

We had rain on Wednesday evening. So we took time to dry some things out that had gotten damp – sleeping bags, tent, etc. What got more than a little damp, however, were our riding clothes. The night before we had washed them out in the sink at the RV campground bathroom and hung them in the tree to dry. Because of the rain through the night, they were not anywhere near dry. So we didn’t leave Delores until 10:30.

Before leaving we ate breakfast at the Rio Grande Southern Bed and Breakfast. Our usual breakfast of potatoes, eggs, and pancakes was varied with grits instead of pancakes. Since we were the only ones for breakfast at 9:30 the cook came out and talked with us for a while. We had mentioned that we were a little diet conscious as we quizzed him about alternatives to the menu. Maybe he thought we were a little strange, or was simply intrigued as the cross country cycling event came out in the conversation. But he clearly enjoyed talking and seemed to enjoy listening to us as well.

Our 50 mile ride from Delores to Durango demanded more energy from us than we anticipated. Maybe the 83 miles from the previous day and the 126 miles from two days before had drained us lower than we realized. Maybe it was the anticipation of having two days off. But every hill just drained me. And, Mick said he felt about the same. With every climb our legs ached. How wonderful it was to have a 10 mile descent into Durango!!

We had planned and worked hard to arrive in Durango Thursday and we made it. Much of the motivation was the opportunity to stay at the home of Howard and Carolyn Engeberg. Howard and Carolyn are the parents of my sister-in-law, Jan Engeberg Aalborg.

Howard and Carolyn have opened their home and hearts to us treating us as if we are famous cyclists and their children. We have beds, a home shower, laundry, and food, food, food! Did I mention food? Home cooked food! Lots of variety. Howard has offered his pickup for errands. It had been wonderful to be in their home receiving their friendship and generosity.

Tomorrow Roger Hill and Tim Sellers will arrive from North Carolina and Texas. These two guys will ride the Colorado section with us for a week. Mick and I have been looking forward to them joining us.

Crossing into Colorado - THE BIKE SHOP CLOSES AT 6:00

Stats Wednesday Aug 18 – Blanding to Delores, CO. Day distance 83.2; ride time 6 h 32 m (9 h 15 m); ave speed 12.72; total distance 1214.8

Surprisingly we both felt fairly good considering the long ride yesterday. In fact we pushed ourselves from Blanding to Monticello (the tailwind from the south gave us a fantasy sense of strength). Our goal is to be in Durango, CO by Thursday afternoon. In order to achieve that, we need to arrive in Delores today.
Our maps told us a bike shop was in Monticello. But no – it had gone out of business. The duct tape on Mickey’s front tire was still holding. But we didn’t know how long it would last. And now his back tire was bubbling and looking very tired. We are out of fresh tubes. We are feeling vulnerable. But there is a bike shop in Delores. That gives added incentive to make it there by 6:00.

I had called the bike shop in Delores. A recording came on stating that its business hours were from 12:00 to 6:00. And the voice greeting said the shop was going out of business.

About 1:00 we crossed into Colorado from Utah. Yeah! Another state accomplished. We will miss the desert beauty of Utah. But we are anticipating the mountains of Colorado.

Thirty miles from Delores – SHPEEW! Mickey’s rear tire was flat in 5 seconds. No fresh tubes. The bike shop closes at 6:00. Mickey has an old tube we saved the valve of which leaked air. We also have a patch kit. What are we going to do? Mickey decides to just put in the old tube instead of attempting to repair the punctured one. His tube blew because his rear tire was so worn it did not protect the tube.

Mickey desperately needed new tires as well. THE BIKE SHOP CLOSES AS 6:00!! I never talked with a person at the bike shop. I’ve only gotten a recording on two previous calls.

While Mickey is changing tubes I decided to call the bike shop repeatedly until someone answers. I figure, if I call 6 or 7 times, if someone is in the shop, they will eventually answer.

I call. I call. I call. I call.

Finally, the guy answers. I explain our situation to him and what we need. Tubes and two 700 x 32 tires. Does he have them?

Yes, he does. BUT, he has to leave and close early because of an appointment. What can we do?

The owner tells us that he will leave the tubes and tires at the local grocery store in Delores. We can look at them there and if we want them buy them at the store. The store will then pay him.

As the saying goes – SWWEEET! We arrived in Delores as 6:15.

Part of the experience of bicycle touring – we have learned – is dealing with whatever we are confronted with and finding a way to solve it.

Snoop around a seemingly abandoned service station for bolts and nuts. Super glue a tire. Duct tape a tire. Call. Call. Call. Point – don’t ever give up. Keep thinking of options. Keep pedaling, spining. Shift! Shift ideas. Shift possibilities.

Duct Taping a Tire & Water Angels - Lee and Lori Skeem

Stats Tuesday, Aug 17 –Hanksville to Blanding. Day distance 126; ride time 11 h 18 m (15 h); ave speed 11.39 ; total climb 7867; total distance 1131.6

We planned on a big ride today, so we were rolling at 6:00 am. The weather report indicated no or little wind. We thought it best to take advantage of that. As we pedaled out ot Hanksville the sign said 122 miles to Blanding. The first goal was Hite Marina at Lake Powell (50 miles). About 30 miles into the ride Mickey was attempting to locate the source of a strange noise in his front wheel or tire. He discovered that his front tire had a bubble in it and it appeared that the tread could “unply.” We are a hundred miles or more from a bike shop. We decided to “super glue” the weak area and then duct tape it. That solved the problem for the time being.

However, my rear tire started losing air. Every 10 miles we would stop and I would pump it up. I did not want to change tubes until we got to Hite Marina at Lake Powell. But two miles before we got the the turn off for Hite Marina I had to change the tube. Fortunately we found a little shade as now it was about 11:30 – and it was hot.

Taking a 45 minute break at Hite Marina we watered up with every container we had and then set out for 70 some miles to Blanding (with no services – meaning no available water on the way). I think we both were a little concerned that we were doing something foolish. It was hot. Really HOT!! Little or no wind. The sun was intense. And we are on a climb out of Lake Powell. No shade. But we didn’t want to say anything that would discourage the other.

Eventually the road evened a little. But we took it slow. We did not want to get overheated.

The traffic was lite. Mostly RVs and pickups / SUVs with boats in two. About 2:30 a large pickup with a 5^th wheel trailer hauling motorcycles was parked on a pullout in the oncoming lane. The couple in the pickup, Lee and Lori Skeem, saw us coming and stopped to see if we had enough water. They gave us 6 bottles of water (3 each). At the moment we had water. But later on as we consumed all our water, we realized that their gift of water was critical. Without their water we could have been in trouble.

At 6:00 we stop and eat peanut butter and jelly sandwiches and an apple. We still have 30 miles to go. But a long downhill awaits. (We had been on a 20 mile ascent –climbing and leveling – for most of the afternoon.

Finally we crest a summit and start a 10 mile downhill. Downhills are great. But eventually you have to go up again. And after a day like this when you stop pedaling for even a little while and then start again your leg muscles just scream with lactic acid. It takes about 2 minutes for the acid to work its way out.

At the bottom of the 10 mile descent – sure enough we have a series of ups and downs. The final 6 miles into Blanding contain what felt like 8% climbs. It’s getting dark. And we finally finish about 9:30.

By the way – it’s not 122 miles from Hanksville to Blanding. It’s 126 miles. The signs and the mile markers did not coincide. Not a big difference in a car. But psychologically it’s a lot on a bicycle!!

We’re tired. But we had no wind to deal with. It was worth it. And thank you Lee and Lori Skeem. Thanks for the water. Enjoy your motorcycles!!